2011.07.08 - 12
This report follows on the one for Zambia which (we hope) you read at http://mi60zambia.blogspot.com. It's the last post of the series in which we told you about our MozMalZamZim trip. Remember our whole route? We started at Sabiepark, Jakkalsbessie (south) and travelled anti-clockwise until we ended at Sabiepark again.
Once we had been processed by the Zambian immigration authorities (shouldn't it be emigration as we were leaving?), we were met by an armed guard on the Kariba dam wall. He told us about the two power stations on either side of the wall's ends (one generates power for Zambia, the other for Zimbabwe) and he did not mind us taking photos. You see the Kariba dam waters to your right, then the massive dam wall on which all traffic crosses between the two countries and to the left, the water that has been allowed to pass through the wall and that keeps the Zambezi River flowing.
Our travel partner, Andy, was not feeling well - tooth ache! During the night Wieske asked for the Flagyl and Augmentin (which our dentist had prescribed in case of tooth problems) as Andy was feverish.
The following day, two cars headed out to explore the area, but Andy rested in camp. Mrad, Renate and I visited Kariba: the Breezes Marina where big houseboats are anchored for trips on the lake (as we did two years ago). Magic in the making!
Just before the petrol station in the town Kariba, one turns up the hill to the view point over the Kariba dam. Look at Yam Yam, river god's statue between us. We also looked at souvenirs. We bought some souvenirs and listened to Yam Yam's story. Click on the arrow to listen too.
In town we shopped - much fresher produce at this local market than in Kariba's Shoprite! But for bread, tea, coffee, etc. Shoprite is a good option.
Like Wieske and Riette, we drove through the adjacent Charara Wildlife Reserve. It was a disappointment as we didn't see any game, but the power lines bode well for the country.
On our return to camp, Andy said he felt better. We took a "family" photograph.
FLtR: Renate (who set up her camera), Mrad, Inge, Andy, Wieske, Riette
Towards the evening Andy had such a bad attack of the shivers that Mrad went doctor hunting. He found a Dutch doctor who couldn't help with tropical diseases but her friend was a Zimbabwean nurse who gave Andy a course of Coartem - she thought he had Malaria!
We left NAUZ the next morning - either to continue our trip or to get closer to the South African border to take Andy home - time would tell. The next detailed map shows our direct route through Zimbabwe from the north at Kariba via Karoi to Chinhoyi in the south.
Once again the road passed through magnificent scenery. We just had to dodge the occasional pot hole.
The many trucks on the road explained the condition of the roads.
We passed the first of 7 toll gates on our route to Beit Bridge.
Best policy: smile, greet and pay! 1US$ at each toll.
Our first stop was KAROI where we had hoped to visit a friend, but we pushed through to Chinhoyi as she was out.
In CHINHOYI (253km from Kariba) we pitched tent at Orange Grove Hotel (R110 for one night). The others rented a room as Andy had pain in his legs - not a good sign. He thought it was gout, but the doctors diagnosed a massive thrombosis in his leg on his return to Pretoria.
We womenfolk visited CHINHOYI / SINOIA CAVES (US$ 8/adult)- the friendly receptionist (who was reading her Bible when we entered) and these words of wisdom augured well for our visit!
The entrance to the "Sleeping Pool Cave".
Once down the dark-dark stairs, you can look back (not so dark after all!) and see how creatively they are stacked.
Deep blue water (which is even bluer when the sun shines!) down below in the deep hole into which we had descended and if you looked up, you could see the sky. How on earth did you manage to take the upward photo without falling into the water, Renate?
The second view of the Blue Water required us to go down into the Dark Cave. It lived up to its name - but a flash photo shows you some of the stairs we had to climb down - and up again!
Once on the surface, one of the beautiful stone benches served as a welcome resting place.
The next day, we moved on towards Harare still hoping that Andy would respond to the medicine, but he realised that he was too ill to continue the trip. The decision was made to curtail the trip. What a wise decision as Andy was diagnosed with a massive thrombosis in his leg upon his return to South Africa!
Chinhoyi we stopped at a chemist - guess what we bought? Coartem @ Zim$12/course (R84)! Coartem is the brand name for Arthemether & Lumefantrine which we bought at a cheaper price in Mozambique.
We also refuelled, although diesel and petrol were freely available in Zimbabwe!
This map shows our route from Chinhoyi via Harare to Lundi River as we hurried south.
We turned right here.
HARARE is a big sprawling city. Fortunately, a well-doer showed us a shortcut through the traffic which our GPS's didn't know.
We were headed for the border. The occasional loose boulders near the road were beautiful.
When the boulders piled up to become hillocks, the scenery was even more beautiful. As you can see the weather was cold and rainy.
We traveled through MASVINGO, passed the town's informal shops and (in contrast) progressive buildings and continued through the beautiful surrounding country.
But after 529km (10 hours) Andy was too tired to carry on and we found rooms at Rhino Camp (0912370208 - SMS only) on the LUNDI RIVER - basic but clean accommodation.
We had supper in the restaurant - the food was adequate but the beer was better (and we don't really like beer!?!)
The next morning we continued south.
This is the final map of our journey back to South Africa. As you can see Mrad, Renate and I headed towards Tshipise to spend the last week of Renate's holiday in our own magnificent country (next blog).
We stopped at BUBI VILLAGE (0777966905) for an excellent pie and coffee (US$10 for 3). Just look at the interstate liners parked there. They were probably using their chalets. Next time we'll try their camping site.
At last we reached Beit Bridge.
The Zimbabwe border post was efficient.
BUT the South African border post was a circus - we were told that we were in the wrong queue - actually the floors were being cleaned. Go to the tent outside! Then the "right" queue in the tent outside was told to go to the "wrong" queue - the floors were now spotlessly clean!
At last we managed to enter South Africa again.
We thank the Lord that Andy made it home safely to receive the best medical attention possible. He was admitted to hospital, treated and discharged and subsequently admitted again. However, two weeks after reaching home he died due to multiple complications. (See our obituary to Andy in http://mi60mozambique.blogspot.com)
Baie dankie dat jy ons reisverhaal gelees het - enige kommentaar?
You are welcome to look at Renate's complete Zimbabwe photo series. Click on this address:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150246206421455.314292.624021454
